Doornkop Fish & Wildlife Reserve

Friends of ours introduced us to Doornkop Nature Reserve which is situated between Carolina and Mashadodorp in Mpumalanga. It was the ideal location for us to spend a few nights on route to Nelspruit in December. I was really impressed with the accommodation (there are several homes available to rent on AirBnB) and the estate facilities on offer. The clubhouse has a small shop, tennis courts, a games room with pool table and wonderful swimming pool. There is beautiful wildlife to be seen, amazing bird life and stunning vegetation to explore. I loved this place and will definitely go back! Their website is very comprehensive, and you will find a lot of detail about the reserve there: https://doornkopresort.co.za/

There are many hiking trails and mountain bike routes on offer. We enjoyed hiking to a beautiful waterfall which even the kids managed. The reserve also offers special activities for kids during holiday seasons, and we took our kids to free horse-riding lessons which they loved. There were other activities on offer so you can join in organised events or just relax and enjoy the surrounding beauty.

Pony rides for kids at Doornkop

Dung beetles near the horses paddocks

We saw these beautiful cows on the way to the reserve and I had to stop and photograph them!

~ G.S

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve

It is undeniable that South Africa is filled with incredible nature destinations, and I love visiting them and discovering the beauty that our country holds. One of these destinations is a hidden gem called Mkhambathi Nature Reserve in the Eastern Cape.

location

Mkhambathi Nature Reserve is situated on the coast between Port Edward and Port St Johns and while it is an effort to get there it is definitely worth it. The roads to get there are riddled with potholes and the 40km dirt road stretch from Flagstaff can be challenging. The reserve is bounded by two rivers, the Mtentu to the north and Msikaba to the south.

Information

The reserve covers an area of over 8000ha and consists of open grasslands dotted with forest patches and swamp forests making it a unique landscape to experience. It forms part of the greater Pondoland Marine Protected Area and the Pondoland Centre of Endemism, making it one of the most important centres of plant diversity and endemism in Africa. The reserve is managed by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency (ECPTA) and accommodation bookings can be made through their website.

I have added a map here from the information we gathered on our trip as the map they provided isn’t very clear, it is not very detailed but gives you an idea of where the main points of interest are located

History

In 1922 people were moved out of the area and a leper colony with a hospital was established on 18 000 ha of rolling coastal grassland. When leprosy was cured, the facility became a TB hospital. In 1977 a provincial nature reserve was proclaimed in a third of the 18 000 ha. A land claim for the reserve, including the surrounding area, was lodged and granted in 2004 and the applicants were constituted as the Mkhambathi Land Trust (MLT), with the condition that Mkhambathi Nature Reserve be maintained as a reserve and co-managed with ECPTA. The reserve has remained in an untransformed state and there are few settlements in close proximity to it. The adjacent grassland areas are just as valuable in terms of biodiversity and there is a possibility that more land will be incorporated into the reserve in future. (https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/)

Vegetation

Some extremely important vegetation types are protected in Mkhambathi. Examples of the Pondoland-Ugu Sandstone Coastal Sourveld grasslands in this reserve are the only ones under formal conservation, while its Pondoland Scarp Forests are some of the most significant forests in South Africa. The false water-berry Rhynchocalyx lawsonioides and the endangered Pondo palm Jubaeopsis caffra are endemic to this area.

Things to Do

While you may want to relax, there is a lot to keep visitors busy including: fishing in designated areas (with a permit), swimming, mountain biking, birdwatching and self driving to see animals - a 4x4 is necessary especially in the rainy season. We did not have a 4x4 and made use of the game drive service which I highly recommend (enquire at reception for pricing). Most visitors enjoy hiking through the reserve especially along the coast and the trail from Mkhambathi Falls to Horseshoe Falls. There is no dangerous game which makes it safe to explore and we especially enjoyed swimming in the many rock pools - see video below.

Accommodation

When we visited the reserve several years ago, we stayed in GweGwe Rondawels which is an incredible location right at the foot of the ocean. People who visited Mkhambahti in the past would have fond memories of those huts. Apparently these rondawels have been demolished to make way for a new boutique hotel which is said to open in 2024. The current accommodation options are basic but functional cottages.

We loved visiting this reserve and would love to return again as there is a lot to explore!

2 x Stone Cottages while Cottage no.6 is an old house

Tips: Remember that is it is far away from everything with no cellphone signal so you really do relax, but that also means you need to plan well in advance and take everything that you may need. Perhaps the boutique lodge is up and running sometime this year and then you can stay there in luxury!

~ G.S

References:

https://www.birdlife.org.za/iba-directory/mkhambathi-nature-reserve/

https://visiteasterncape.co.za/parks/mkhambathi/

http://bookonline.ecpta.co.za/?q=node/45 - website to book accommodation

Storm's River Mouth

I have been wanting to return to the Garden Route National Park to share this beautiful part of the world with my kids for a few years now. Although they are still too young to do the Otter Trail I knew they would love the scenery and surroundings. It is really a nature lover’s paradise.

Dramatic scenery at Storm’s River Mouth

We spent a wonderful long weekend there with family and enjoyed the lilo adventure up the gorge. I didn’t want to risk my camera falling in the water so unfortunately I don’t have any pics of that experience!

Suspension bridge

We enjoyed the hike to suspension bridge as well as the short Lourie Trail inside the Storms River Mouth Restcamp. Some of the more energetic also did the Waterfal hike which is the first part of the Otter Trail. See further trail information on the SANParks website .

One of the highlights of the trip was finding and interacting with a beautiful Octopus as well as several starfish in one of the rock pools. We enjoyed watching whales, birdwatching and even spotted an otter.
The beautiful forests are an experience in themselves and I loved seeing the natural beauty and vegetation. Because the reserve is in a protected area you don’t see any ships on the ocean and the natural environment is pristine.

Inquisitive Octopus

We visited the Big Tree just off the N2 highway where a lovely forest walk leads you to the impressive tree. The Outeniqua Yellowwood boasts an age of over 1000 years, height of 36 metres, main trunk length of 18.3 metres, crown spread of 33 metres and average circumference of 8.5 metres.

We had an amazing visit to the beautiful part of South Africa and look forward to visiting again whenever we get another chance!

Kruger National Park (Southern) Overview

King of the Beasts - always a highlight to see a Lion in the Kruger Park

Hundreds, if not thousands, of books, guides and references have been written about this incredible place and so I was wondering if I should even write a blog about it? I realised that I like to write and share about places (gardens, landscapes, parks, nature experiences) that inspire me whether these are well known or not. So even though you may know the Kruger Park very well perhaps this post will inspire you to visit it again in the near future.

Quick Historical Fact

The park was first proclaimed in 1898 as the Sabie Game Reserve by the then president of the Transvaal Republic, Paul Kruger. He first proposed the need to protect the animals of the Lowveld in 1884, but his revolutionary vision took another 12 years to be realised when the area between the Sabie and Crocodile Rivers was set aside for restricted hunting. On 31 May 1926 the National Parks Act was proclaimed and with it the merging of the Sabie and Shingwedzi Game Reserves into the Kruger National Park.
The first motorists entered the park in 1927 for a fee of one pound. (https://www.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/tourism/history.php)

The Place to Go for Nature Lovers

Visiting the Kruger Park is a memorable experience and especially so for nature lovers - the sounds, smells, birds, trees and wildlife are what many South Africans love about the Bush . The Kruger is a special place to visit as each time can be completely different depending on what time of year you visit as well as which parts you go to. It is a very large reserve and with the slow speed limit it can take hours of travelling between camps. Talk to people who have visited before get good tips and plan accordingly. Don’t forget your Mosquito repellent, Binocs, Birdbook, Camera and the essential Snake-Bite Kit (Cooler box of drinks and snacks).

Southern Kruger, Map where sightings can be shared at most stops in the Park

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Restcamps

We have stayed at three of the camps in the Southern part of the Kruger Park over the past while and here is a bit more detail about each of them. In most of the camps the accommodation is basic but clean and there are different options to choose from. You can walk around the camps to see birds and small animals and most of the trees have nametags. In all the camps the area for Overnight Guests is normally separated from the area where Day Visitors can access. The pools are reserved for people staying over but the restaurant and shops are open for all.

 Berg en Dal Restcamp

Berg en Dal is the most Southern camp and located very close to the Malelane Gate entrance. A highlight is always stopping on the bridge when entering at Malelane Gate to look down onto the Crocodile River and spot all the birds, crocs and hippos in the waters below. Berg en Dal camp has many beautiful trees and a small museum dedicated to Rhinos. The restaurant overlooks a small dam and there is a walk a short way along the river with braille signage boards. The Rhino walk through the camp is a lovely trail that has information boards and a great way to experience nature while walking safely.

Berg en Dal (Afrikaans for Hill and Valley) is named after the undulating hills in the area

Lower Sabie Restcamp

One of the best camps in Kruger in my opinion. This part of the Park is always filled with abundant game as the animals are drawn to the Lower Sabie River that runs adjacent to the camp. There are also magnificent trees to be found along the road that follows the river as well as in the camp. The restaurant at the camp where the shop is located is built out onto a large deck that overlooks the river and it is lovely to sit here and have a drink or ice-cream while game watching the riverbed below. Sunset Dam, just outside the restcamp, is a wonderful dam for seeing game including hippos and crocodiles (and herons surfing on crocodiles!) and there are nice game drive options from the camp.

Pretoriouskop Restcamp

Pretoriuskop is located on the South Western side of the park and is nearest to Numbi Gate. One of the highlights of this camp is the beautiful swimming pool. The pool is built into the rocks and is a great way to cool down from the heat of the Lowveld. There are several routes to take as an afternoon drive from the camp and walking through the camp to see the beautiful trees and birds is also recommended.

Like so many others, I love the experience of visiting the Kruger Park - the animals, the birds, the trees and the closeness to nature. I also want my children to grow up experiencing the beauty of the Bushveld and hope they will appreciate the complexity of plant and animal communities functioning together where every creature is part of a greater system. We don’t go only to see the big 5, we go to see the animals less seen and often the sightings of snakes, tortoises, chameleons and birds have been our most exciting.

Visiting Kruger with Kids

I have been careful to not take my kids while they were too young for fear of malaria. Now that they are old enough where I am comfortable to stay over in the Park I am so excited to share the experience of the Bush with them. Most kids hate the hours of driving but the novelty of going seatbelt-free is one that they love. We normally put a mattress in the boot of the car so they can climb back and forth and read their books when they get bored looking for animals. I keep activity books and loads of snacks ready to keep them entertained. One of the joys of sharing the Kruger with young kids is that every sighting is exciting. We try to limit the amount of time driving and spend more time exploring the restcamp and stopping wherever possible.

Do you know what my favourite part of visiting the Kruger Park is? The Sunsets.. and the Trees.

Sterculia murex (Lowveld Chestnut)

Rhigozum obovatum (Yellow Pomegranate)

What do you love about the Bush or what has been one of your favourite Kruger Park Experiences?

To Book: https://www.sanparks.org/

Salt Rock Tidal Pools

We travelled to Kwa-Zulu Natal post lockdown to the small seaside town of Salt Rock, north of Ballito and Shaka’s Rock. The town is a popular holiday destination and has beautiful beaches and a lovely new shopping centre called Mount Richmore Village.

Salt Rock is a family friendly beach and Granny’s Pools is a popular spot for young kids as the water is clear, calm and shallow. Another feature my kids loved was the historic tidal pools built into the rocks in front of the Salt Rock caravan park.

I contacted the Salt Rock Hotel Beach Resort to ask them for any insights into the history of the tidal pools. Evan Mitchell shared the following, “The Salt Rock tidal pools were built in the forties by sugar cane farmer Basil Hulett, grandfather of the current owners of the hotel and great grandson of Sir Liege Hulett. He was the township developer who started Salt Rock and built the hotel and surrounding golf course and Country Club. He originally sold off very reasonably priced plots of land to his friends in an attempt to entice people to build homes and live in Salt Rock.” (see their website https://www.saltrockbeach.co.za/)

The Salt Rock Caravan Park and Campsite overlooks the Tidal pool

The walls are built out of stone and mortar and create a unique sense of place. The pools are created by several concrete walls that fill up with water crashing over the rocks from the sea. Walking along the walls and up to the small lookout is an adventure for young and old alike A highlight for my kids was the stream of overflow water that cascades into a small waterfall on the side of the tidal pool where the small stream runs back to meet the ocean.

Waves crashing into the tidal pool

Exploring the Lookout Point

There is another tidal pool at Thompsons Beach (a 5 minute drive from main salt rock beach) which is larger but also has more fish and other coral in it, including sea urchins. A good spot for snorkeling as we even enjoyed watching the beautiful fish from the side.

There is an indigenous nursery called Claremont Farm (http://claremontfarm.co.za/) nearby which I was hoping to visit but didn’t get to fit it in. Hopefully next time!

5 Outdoor Nature Activities to do with Kids in Cape Town

Spending time outdoors is healthy, fun and educational and in Cape Town you are spoilt for choice when it comes to outdoor nature activities. With kids there are some limitations to where you can go and how much you can do so it’s always good to know which activities are good options to choose from. We visited in April for a few days and decided on these things according to the time we had available and close proximity to our accommodation so that we could come home to re-energize between outings. Thanks to our local guide Juli for all the tips and insights!

1. Table Mountain

A visit to the top of this beautiful and iconic landmark by CableCar is exciting and memorable (or if your kids are older and fitter you could hike up to the top). It is advisable to check the weather forecast beforehand and remember that afternoon rates are lower than morning rates. If you present your South African ID to show it is your birthday month you get free entry. Once at the top you can buy a drink from the restaurant and enjoy the scenery or a walk along the various trails on offer. See Table Mountain’s official website.

There are lots of signage and information boards for you to learn from

2. Walk along the Promenade

This broad walkway runs along the coastline at Seapoint and is a popular outdoor space for people to exercise, do yoga, picnic, or walk their dogs. There is a lot to see and it makes for a lovely afternoon outing. There are several restaurants along the route and places to stop and enjoy the view. If you are not up for walking there is the fun option of renting bikes.

The Mouille Point Park, located along the Promenade next to the Mouille Point Lighthouse, is a great playground with a variety of play equipment and the most beautiful setting of the sea and Lion’s Head behind.

3. Green Point Park

We made sure to park in Park Road near an entrance to Green Point Park so that we could get ice-cream from the amazing Creamery Cafe in Mouille Point (we even went back the next day!). Green Point Park has several biodiversity and educational gardens as well as age appropriate playgrounds that are well maintained and well used by residents of the City of Cape Town. The park is beautifully laid out (it was designed by OvP Landscape Architects) and has a series of scenic waterways that are filled with birds and pathways that highlight the surrounding scenery of Stadium, Lion’s Head and Mouille Point Lighthouse.

4. The Beach

Yes, this one had to be on the list! Kids love the sand and sea (even if it is freezing cold) and there are several options to choose from. We went to Glen Beach, Camps Bay Beach and Camps Bay Tidal Pool. Llandadno is a bit more of a drive but more sheltered if weather isn’t the best.

5. Signal Hill

Watching the sunset from this vantage point is a beautiful way to end the day. You can drive relatively close to the picnic area so it not a far walk (depending on how busy and how many cars are parked along the road). Take a blanket with drinks and snacks and enjoy the amazing view over the ocean and Robben Island. Remind your children of the sacrifices people made to live in a free and democratic South Africa and how we continue to live with hope for a better future despite the challenges we face.

We weren’t able to visit Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, but this will definitely be on our list for the next time we visit!

The Cavern - Nature Journaling Course

The Cavern hosts a variety of activities on its events calendar throughout the year including: bird weekends, yoga retreats, photography workshops and mountain bike races amoungst others. I joined the course called ‘Sketching and journaling – creating a nature journal’ hosted by two well-known figures in the botanical field: Elsa Pooley and Gillian Condy.

The course was run from Wednesday 1 March – Sunday 5 March 2017 and we were blessed with wonderful weather over this time. A few late afternoon showers were well timed as this was when we were indoors drawing in the studio.

Beautiful scenery on our morning walks

View of the Hotel from a vantage point on a morning hike

Wonderful hikes in the mountains

If you have ever been to The Cavern you will already be well aware of its reputation to fill your belly with the most wonderful and delicious meals as well as provide a relaxing atmosphere that makes you feel as if you have entered into a beautiful warm bubble where all you can think is “Life is Good”.

Always fun choosing what to have for dinner from the menu!

Our programme roughly involved breakfast at 8am followed by a morning hike into the beautiful surroundings where we would stop to draw whatever caught our eye (a dam, a tree, the bridge, moss, flowers, a bubbling stream) and then tea was brought to us at our location in the bush. We would head back to camp for lunch and then in the afternoon spend time in the studio drawing the plants we brought back with us from the morning walk. Some people drew flowers, others fungi, leaves, insects or seeds.

Working in the Studio

Elsa Pooley has the most incredible plant knowledge (which comes from her love of the area and having written several books on the subject) but it is her passion for plants that is completely contagious. She generously shares her knowledge of each plant we stop to admire, points out its special features and patiently answers all our questions (most often, “How do you spell that again?”)

Elsa showing us a beautiful locust

Heading out for the morning walk and drawing session in the forest

Inspecting some flowers

While Elsa is the person to go to for any plant question Gill Condy is a trained botanical artist and gives tips and direction on how to improve your drawing skills. Both ladies are talented at water colour painting and it was a treat to learn some tips on how to use this medium for the first time.

Absorbed in our drawings

Our nature journals were all very different and we had the freedom to make them into whatever we liked. It was interesting to see how each person took a slightly different angle and approach to the same subject and how everyone was drawn to different plant types.

Bridge in the Forest

Drawing in the Forest

We arrived on Wednesday afternoon not quite sure what to expect, and left on Sunday feeling inspired and rejuvenated. The fresh air combined with soul-inspiring walks through unspoilt nature, not to mention being fed and pampered (some even went for massages at the onsite Spa) made for a most amazing and memorable trip. Thanks to everyone for making it so special!

Such a treat to share this time with my dearest Mom!

Vergelegen Wine Estate

View of the Mountains from Stables Restaurant at Vergelegen

You know you have arrived somewhere special when your heart starts beating slower as you drive down the oak tree lined driveway and approach the entrance gate to Vergelegen Estate. This historic farm was granted to Governer Willem Adriaan van der Stel in 1700. Here he built an estate that reflected the Renaissance influence of wealthy estates and palaces in Europe with their symmetrical plans and ornate gardens. Vergelegen was laid out with a double walled octagonal garden, radial avenues, and four flanking outbuildings - the slave lodge, water mill/stable, the wine cellar and the pigeon house. 

The gardens are vast and many hours can be spent exploring them. When the estate was taken over by Anglo American group in 1987 they tasked their team to restore the grounds to the historic core of the estate and this emphasis can clearly be felt. There are 17 unique gardens to explore and wander through including: Octagonal Garden, David Austin Rose Garden, Reflection Garden, Rose Garden, Sundial Garden, Bamboo Garden, East Garden (In front of Stables), Agapanthus Garden, Camellia Garden of Excellence, Wetland Garden, Fynbos Garden (Cellar), Hydrangea Garden, Yellowwood Walk, Maple Garden, Oak Arboretum, Camphor Forest, Ginko Trees, and the Children’s Adventure Garden.

Sundial Garden next to the newly renovated Wine Tasting Centre and Stables Restaurant

Information Centre and Wine Tasting is the first building you enter from the Parking Area

The Octagonal garden is bordered by a pergola covered walkway along the perimeter and a beautiful garden within this formal enclosed space. A herbaceous border has been planted on either side of the pathway leading to the Homestead with more large Camphor trees adjacent the building.

There is so much to see on this beautiful estate that you may not fit everything in. I advise exploring the gardens in a clockwise direction from the Information Centre. Starting in the Sundial Garden first make your way to the Octagonal Garden, then the Rose Garden, Camphor Forest, Wetland Walk, Reflection Garden, and ending at the Stables restaurant. If you have kids they will have fun in the play area while you enjoy a glass of wine (or coke) after all the walking. If you still have energy you can do the maze which is made from non fruit bearing vines. Depending on how much time you have will also determine if you can fit in the Maple Tree and Yellowwood Walk into your visit. Remember Camellia peak flowering times are June to August so make sure to fit that in if you’re visiting in winter.

Reflection Garden

Oldest Recorded Oak Tree

Wetland Walk

Camphor Forest

The Camphor Forest is absolutely breathtaking. You feel as if you are transported into another world as you walk through this enchanted landscape. The trees have been grown from seedlings from the ‘Big Five’ which are the five original Camphor trees planted in 1700 situated at the front of the Homestead.

Agapanthus Garden

You may also be interested in the refurbished and exquisitely furnished buildings such as the Homestead and Library as well as dining at one of the three venues: Camphors at Vergelegen is the signature restaurant overlooking the lawns and gardens located next to the historic Homestead; Stables at Vergelegen is a more casual dining experience with a lovely play area close by and stunning views of the Hottentots Holland mountain range; and finally the Picnic at Vergelegen can be pre-booked and enjoyed in the incredible Camphor tree forest between November and April.

Playground which is situated next to Stables Restaurant

Vergelegen has a vast and rich history and diverse and beautiful gardens that they clearly put a lot of time and effort into maintaining. A visit to this special estate is a rich and rewarding experience.

(Some of the Photographs are from my visit in 2016 and others were taken at my most recent visit - April 2021)

Contact Info

Address:
Vergelegen Estate | Somerset West, South Africa

Phone:
+27 21 847 2100

Email:
info@vergelegen.co.za