Emmarentia

Melville Koppies

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Like many people who have lived in Johannesburg for many years (some even their whole lives!) I had never visited the nature reserve in the heart of Johannesburg.

I had heard so much about it - the beautiful views, the amazing birdlife (over 200 spp), the incredible flora and the rich history that this nature reserve held so I was so excited to finally visit it. I met with a group of friends in the Marks Park Sport Club parking lot off Judith Road and we crossed carefully to enter the Main Gates framed by stone walls.

The reserve has recently changed its opening times to every Sunday morning from 8 to 11.30am. Visitors are welcomed on arrival by volunteers and given a map so that they can explore the trails at their own pace. The cost is R80 per adult and R40 per child and all proceeds are used towards the maintenance of the Park. Guided tours for small groups can be arranged.

The Central section was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1959 and is a declared national heritage site. The 50ha area can be explored through pathways and there are information boards detailing the heritage and history of the area as well as the fauna and flora to be found there.

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The reserve is made up of three sections namely Melville Koppies Central, Melville Koppies East and Melville Koppies West. The East and West sections are open public space and access is not controlled. The East side is only 10ha in size and is frequented by dog walkers while the West section is 100ha large and borders the Westpark Cemetery. There are security issues here so it is advisable to only hike in groups with security. I was surprised to see security guards actively patrolling the nature reserve (Central) when we visited on Sunday and this really added to a sense of safety which is always a concern when visiting public spaces in Johannesburg.

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

Vegetation

The vegetation of the Koppies is entirely indigenous and is a remarkable example of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and trees so close to a city centre. The variety of the flora can be seen in the 500 identified species within the eight undisturbed plant communities that have been identified. There are also 56 species of grass recorded and the dominant trees include Acacia robusta, Acacia caffra, Euclea crispa (Blue Guarri), Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Brachylaena rotundata and (Mountain Silver-oak). The Protea caffra and Mundelea sericea (Corkbush) were also lovely to see.

Along the western boundary where the Westdene Spruit flows a beautiful riverine forest can be found with large Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Combretum erythrophyllum (River Bushwillows), Olea europea (Wild Olive), and Kiggelaria africana (Wild Peach). The trees were planted in the 1960s to show people how beautiful our indigenous trees are. This part of the reserve is known as the Arboretum and was a highlight for me - the flowing water is calming and the trees beautiful and shady.

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Water

This stream, the Westdene Spruit, is one of the many streams flowing north from the Witwatersrand watershed. Among them are the Braamfontein Spruit and the Jukskei, and they all eventually join the Limpopo River, which enters the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai in Mozambique.

History

Melville Koppies carries evidence of ancient hunter-gatherers, early farmers as well as the first iron-age miners of the Witwatersrand. In 1989 Professor R J Mason published a "Guide to Archaeology Sites: Johannesburg". The purpose of the paper was as much to inform and educate the public as to make a plea for greater awareness of the heritage we are losing.

He identified seven archaeological sites on what we call Melville Koppies Central: African Iron Furnace Models; A second Tswana Iron Furnace; Tswana hut floor and pottery - 300 years old; 1880s gold prospecting; 1900s gun emplacement and Early 1900s quarries. There are information boards and examples of some of the tools and implements on display at the lecture hall.

The fascinating history of how the original Braamfontein farm passed to Louw Geldenhuis during the gold rush in 1886 and how the northern suburbs evolved out of this can also be viewed on an information board at the lecture hall.

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Volunteers

The nature reserve would not be what it is today without the involvement of passionate and dedicated volunteers. The Melville Koppies Management Committee works hard to maintain the paths, control alien invasive vegetation, pick up litter and control illegal access to maintain the reserve on an ongoing basis. They also are always looking for ways to raise money for the reserve so that the salaries of the staff they employ can be paid as well as the additional security they hire.

Richard Hall devoted over 25 years to the maintenance of Melville Koppies and together with David Mpilo, a Council worker they tackled projects of cleaning, weeding and restoring the reserve. Wendy Carstens began to work with Richard Hall from 1997 and is still actively involved today. She received the honorary Ellen Kuzwayo award from the University of Johannesburg for ‘Her commitment to conservation and tourism at Melville Koppies’.

How can you help

You can help firstly by visiting (have you?) and also by making donations to Melville Koppies (bank details on their website) or by registering them as a MySchoolMyVillageMyPlanet beneficiary.

Contact Wendy Carstens wendavid@mweb.co.za for further information. www.mk.org.za

We loved our time spent at Melville Koppies and will definitely be back again! Thank you to all those involved in the upkeep and running of this historical and ecological gem.

Emmarentia - Johannesburg Botanical Gardens

Beautiful Autumn Colours at Emmarentia Dam

Beautiful Autumn Colours at Emmarentia Dam

Most people know the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens as ‘Emmarentia’ and think of it more as a Park than a Botanical Gardens. I certainly was not aware of the behind the scenes operations of this green space – there are greenhouses, a herbarium, administration offices, and a compost site all hidden from view to the average user.

Recreation

 Emmarentia is a beautiful, well loved park in the heart of Johannesburg. You will find people of every age and culture enjoying this green space  – runners, cyclists, families with kids riding bikes or feeding the ducks (actually Egyptian Geese but most people call them ducks), young adults picnicking, yoga on boards on the dam, people searching for Pokemon, bridal parties taking photos in the rose gardens, dog walkers, Frisbee or volleyball players, market goers (The Linden Market is held here once a quarter), and music lovers (the park is also a venue for several concerts including Joburg Day).

Egyptian Geese on Emmarentia Dam

Egyptian Geese on Emmarentia Dam

Maintenance 

Lindelani Nwedo from Johannesburg City Parks, in charge of operations and maintenance at the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens, explained that the Park has 14 full time employees (I thought it would have been much more!) but makes use of co-operatives such as Jozi at Work together with EPWP for additional manpower to tackle the enormous task of maintaining the 81 hectare park. There are six shed houses that contain mother plants so that all plants in the Gardens can be replaced should they be lost due to fire, flood or drought. The nurserymen who grow the plants in the sheds have green fingers and although the plants are not for sale to the public they are often donated to schools or used for environmental education. Rare or special plants are also exhibited at certain show days such as the Succulent, Horticultural or Bonsai Societies Shows.

Alien invasive control is an important part of the Park’s maintenance programme although the task is often too great for the maintenance team. The Emmarentia Residents Association provides assistance where possible and on 20 October 2018 almost 100 people were involved in removing poisoned invasive alien plants, clearing a clogged dam and cleaning up litter.

Succulents housed in Greenhouses - viewing by prior arrangement with JHB City Parks

Succulents housed in Greenhouses - viewing by prior arrangement with JHB City Parks

Orchids in Greenhouse

Orchids in Greenhouse

History

I was interested to learn more about the Park and its surrounding suburb’s history from a book written by Lucille Davie called “A Journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo”, published by Johannesburg City Parks and Zoo. Here are some insights from the book: “The botanical garden was originally part of the large farm, Braamfontein, named after the Spruit running through the area. The farm belonged to Gerrit Bezuidenhout, one of the first Boer farmers in the area, who received the title deeds in 1858. The farm was sub-divided several times and the Eastern part bought for £4500 by Lourens Geldenhuys in 1886, the year the main gold reef was discovered in Johannesburg. Lourens had three sons, namely Frans, Dirk and Louw. Frans and Louw divided the farm in two, the division running along the present day Orange Road. The each built themselves a farmhouse, both of which still exist, while Dirk went farming at Ermelo. Frans married Judith Grobbelaar and built what is now Marks Park Sports Clubhouse. She gives her name to Judith Road in Emmarentia, while Louw’s wife, Emmarentia Botha, gave her name to the suburb. Over the years Louw sold portions of his farm, which became the suburbs of Melville, Richmond, Braamfontein, Parkview, Forest Town, Westdene, Parkhurst and Parktown. Louw gave to the community in several ways: he founded the Langlaagte Kindertehuis for Boer War orphans in 1902 (now the Abraham Kriel Maria Kloppers Kinderhuis), founded the Braamfontein Government School (present day Louw Geldenhuys School) allowed Boers returning from the was to settle on his land paying some of their profits to him in exchange for land, and he was also actively involved in politics.

The Dabulamanzi Canoe Club is situated on the opposite side of Emmarentia Dam. The clubhouse was built in 2004 and has an active membership from recreational paddlers to world champions. The club has a development programme in the form of the Soweto Canoe Recreation Club which is beautifully captured in the film “Beyond the River”.

Sunset over Emmarentia Dam

Sunset over Emmarentia Dam

 The Park consists of some 8000 trees, large lawn areas and a network of pathways that connect the various themed spaces. There is a Shakespeare Garden containing herbs referred to by Shakespeare in his plays; the Chapel Garden where bridal couples can take their vows; the Western Walk; the Herb Garden filled with traditional culinary  herbs as well as African medicinal herbs; the Succulent Garden that was established in 2006 and contains Aloes, Cactuses and Pelargoniums; and the firm favourite by hundreds of visitors every weekend - the Rose Garden - laid out in 1964 and planted with over 3000 roses in several terraces.

Large Lawn Areas at Emmarentia

Large Lawn Areas at Emmarentia

Terraced Rose Garden

Terraced Rose Garden

Certainly this Park has so much to offer and gives one a break from busy city life and is dearly loved by all those that frequent it. I know my daughters particularly love the soft serve that can be bought at the kiosk and enjoyed in the children’s play area.

 

More Information:

Davie, L. (2014) “A Journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo”, published by Johannesburg City Parks and Zoo

 JHB City Parks Link - http://www.jhbcityparks.com/index.php/2015-04-29-12-30-27/find-a-park-contents-64?task=view&id=123

 Emmarentia Residents Association - http://era.org.za/

Dabulamanzi Canoe Club - http://dabulamanzi.co.za/

The Linden Market - https://thelindenmarket.com/

Joburg Day - http://www.947.co.za/joburgday/