Melville Koppies

Like many people who have lived in Johannesburg for many years (some even their whole lives!) I had never visited the nature reserve in the heart of Johannesburg.

I had heard so much about it - the beautiful views, the amazing birdlife (over 200 spp), the incredible flora and the rich history that this nature reserve held so I was so excited to finally visit it. I met with a group of friends in the Marks Park Sport Club parking lot off Judith Road and we crossed carefully to enter the Main Gates framed by stone walls.

The reserve has recently changed its opening times to every Sunday morning from 8 to 11.30am. Visitors are welcomed on arrival by volunteers and given a map so that they can explore the trails at their own pace. The cost is R80 per adult and R40 per child and all proceeds are used towards the maintenance of the Park. Guided tours for small groups can be arranged.

The Central section was proclaimed a nature reserve in 1959 and is a declared national heritage site. The 50ha area can be explored through pathways and there are information boards detailing the heritage and history of the area as well as the fauna and flora to be found there.

The reserve is made up of three sections namely Melville Koppies Central, Melville Koppies East and Melville Koppies West. The East and West sections are open public space and access is not controlled. The East side is only 10ha in size and is frequented by dog walkers while the West section is 100ha large and borders the Westpark Cemetery. There are security issues here so it is advisable to only hike in groups with security. I was surprised to see security guards actively patrolling the nature reserve (Central) when we visited on Sunday and this really added to a sense of safety which is always a concern when visiting public spaces in Johannesburg.

Map from the Melville Koppies Website (www.mk.org.za/mkcal.htm)

Map of Melville Koppies Central Walking Paths

More information on the geology of the reserve can be found on their website www.mk.org.za

Vegetation

The vegetation of the Koppies is entirely indigenous and is a remarkable example of the richness of highveld grasses, flowers, and trees so close to a city centre. The variety of the flora can be seen in the 500 identified species within the eight undisturbed plant communities that have been identified. There are also 56 species of grass recorded and the dominant trees include Acacia robusta, Acacia caffra, Euclea crispa (Blue Guarri), Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Brachylaena rotundata and (Mountain Silver-oak). The Protea caffra and Mundelea sericea (Corkbush) were also lovely to see.

Along the western boundary where the Westdene Spruit flows a beautiful riverine forest can be found with large Celtis africana (White Stinkwood), Combretum erythrophyllum (River Bushwillows), Olea europea (Wild Olive), and Kiggelaria africana (Wild Peach). The trees were planted in the 1960s to show people how beautiful our indigenous trees are. This part of the reserve is known as the Arboretum and was a highlight for me - the flowing water is calming and the trees beautiful and shady.

Water

This stream, the Westdene Spruit, is one of the many streams flowing north from the Witwatersrand watershed. Among them are the Braamfontein Spruit and the Jukskei, and they all eventually join the Limpopo River, which enters the Indian Ocean at Xai-Xai in Mozambique.

History

Melville Koppies carries evidence of ancient hunter-gatherers, early farmers as well as the first iron-age miners of the Witwatersrand. In 1989 Professor R J Mason published a "Guide to Archaeology Sites: Johannesburg". The purpose of the paper was as much to inform and educate the public as to make a plea for greater awareness of the heritage we are losing.

He identified seven archaeological sites on what we call Melville Koppies Central: African Iron Furnace Models; A second Tswana Iron Furnace; Tswana hut floor and pottery - 300 years old; 1880s gold prospecting; 1900s gun emplacement and Early 1900s quarries. There are information boards and examples of some of the tools and implements on display at the lecture hall.

The fascinating history of how the original Braamfontein farm passed to Louw Geldenhuis during the gold rush in 1886 and how the northern suburbs evolved out of this can also be viewed on an information board at the lecture hall.

Volunteers

The nature reserve would not be what it is today without the involvement of passionate and dedicated volunteers. The Melville Koppies Management Committee works hard to maintain the paths, control alien invasive vegetation, pick up litter and control illegal access to maintain the reserve on an ongoing basis. They also are always looking for ways to raise money for the reserve so that the salaries of the staff they employ can be paid as well as the additional security they hire.

Richard Hall devoted over 25 years to the maintenance of Melville Koppies and together with David Mpilo, a Council worker they tackled projects of cleaning, weeding and restoring the reserve. Wendy Carstens began to work with Richard Hall from 1997 and is still actively involved today. She received the honorary Ellen Kuzwayo award from the University of Johannesburg for ‘Her commitment to conservation and tourism at Melville Koppies’.

How can you help

You can help firstly by visiting (have you?) and also by making donations to Melville Koppies (bank details on their website) or by registering them as a MySchoolMyVillageMyPlanet beneficiary.

Contact Wendy Carstens wendavid@mweb.co.za for further information. www.mk.org.za

We loved our time spent at Melville Koppies and will definitely be back again! Thank you to all those involved in the upkeep and running of this historical and ecological gem.

Discovering The Wilds, a Historical Park in Johannesburg

Kudu Sculpture with View of Telkom Tower from The Wilds

I had heard rumours about a beautiful outdoor space in Johannesburg called The Wilds but it was shrouded in mystery and even the name made me imagine an overgrown and slightly dangerous place to visit, naturally making me a bit apprehensive to go there. When I eventually did visit I was completely taken aback by the beauty and history of this Park. I was captivated by the winding stone paths, the incredible views, the amazing selection of indigenous plants and the artworks that brought such an element of fun and wonder.

Location

The Wilds is located on Houghton Drive, Houghton and is situated on the Parktown Ridge. It consists of two parts, East and West, and is connected by a bridge over Houghton Drive. The West is more park-like and popular amoung visitors, especially the Giraffe Lawn area while the East is recommended to walk in Groups.

Map of the Park at Main Entrance

History

The Park, like Zoo Lake and the Johannesburg Zoo, was a corporate gift to the citizens of Johannesburg. In 1924 the Johannesburg Consolidated Investment Company (JCI) donated the land, on condition that it remained in its natural state and open to the public. Once it was completed in 1938 it was opened to the public. In 1968 the JCI again donated to the park in the form of four greenhouses. It was declared a national monument in 1981.

In the 1980s and 1990s it was hit by crime and people stopped visiting. The park became forgotten and overgrown. In the early 2000s the park was fenced off and a resident named TJ de Klerk tried to revive it by taking people on guided walks on both sides of the park. See more about the rejuvenation of the Park further below, but let’s first look at its physical features:

Vegetation

The trees are incredible – massive Yellowwoods, Lavender Trees, Fever Trees, White Stinkwoods, Cabbage Trees, Olive Trees and a stunning assortment of Cycads and Aloes. The beds below the trees are filled with indigenous groundcovers and I saw plants on display that are seldom seen elsewhere (E.g Pycnostachys urticifolia). This collection of plants has developed over the years as supporters have donated plants and a large donation was made after the Empire Exhibition in 1936 when the Golden Jubilee (50th anniversary) of Johannesburg was celebrated.

Pathways

The winding pathways and staircases (over 8km) are made out of natural packed stone and these create a delightful maze to explore and discover. There is good signage that ensures you don’t get lost and also a map at the entrance to orientate yourself when first arriving. We naturally made our way up through the park, following the paths to the highest point of the park where the sundial is located and the views are panoramic.

Can you spot the Owls? There are 67

Beautiful Stone Pathways

Benches for resting and clear Signage

Sundial

The sundial was created and installed by sundial maker Malcolm Barnfield and stonemason Dave Baguley in 2005 and is inscribed with the words “I only count the sunny hours”. The message around the base of the dial reads “Blessed too is he who learned to know the God of The Wilds” which was previously depicted on a plaque commemorating the words spoken by Jan Smuts. When Smuts died in 1950 The Wilds was dedicated to his memory. (Davie, L. A journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo. 2014. JHB City Parks and Zoo)

Sculpture

One of the highlights of The Park must certainly be the striking steel sculptures  (mostly animals) made by artist James Delaney who has also been instrumental in transforming and rejuvenating the park (See Rejuvenation below). The first installation took place in 2017 as a means of drawing people’s attention to the park. As it was close to Mandela Day, he chose to design 67 owl sculptures that would hang high in the forest and these are a delight to find for young and old alike.  Delaney explains that the sculptures start as charcoal sketches which are then laser cut from steel and painted or powder coated. The pink and yellow giraffe, located on the large bottom lawn area is life size and visible from the main road running past the park. According to Delaney this was a deliberate intervention to draw people’s attention to this once neglected space. The sculpture installations in the park won an award from BASA (Business Arts South Africa) in 2018. (https://www.delaney.co.za/outdoor-sculpture/)

Giraffe Lawn in the late afternoon with visitors picnicking

Bush Baby Forest

Views

The park offers views of Hillbrow, Berea and the inner city. This includes views of several Johannesburg landmarks, including Ponte City Apartments, The Hillbrow Tower, St. Johns School for Boys, Roedean School for Girls, and many mansions in the suburb of Houghton. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wilds_Municipal_Nature_Reserve)

Rejuvenation

It has only been in the last few years that the Park has been fully revived and people feel safe enough to return. This has largely been brought about by artist James Delaney who has spent a considerable amount of time and money on generating funding and gaining support for the Park. He received an AfriSam-SAIA Award for his work in raising over R100 000 but this is just one of the many interventions he has championed. It is inspiring to read his story and how he became involved.

Here is an excerpt taken directly from his website where he details the history of his involvement and the progress made: (taken from https://www.delaney.co.za/installations/my-story-of-the-wilds/)

“Here are some highlights of the work that’s been achieved with my team, with volunteers and with the City Parks Wilds staff on the ground;

• Restoration of 80 park benches, repainting them in bold colours on volunteer days, with donated paint and tools.

• A mini library was donated for the entrance, from which people borrow or take books. It’s become really well used, especially by kids from the inner city.

• Negotiation with Roedean School to take down their stone wall, which had become unstable, and replaced with a fence, and the stone donated to The Wilds.

• Construction of the circular entrance area with seating, designed by Martine de la Harpe and built by JJ with the Roedean stone. This used to an eroded slope of dirt, a depressing welcome to the park. This was sponsored by Hollard, whose Villa Arcadia head office shares the same ridge as The Wilds, and they have done considerable indigenous planting to restore their landscape.

• Sealing the ponds and the installation of a pump which draws water discarded by Gautrain (they pump millions of litres out of their tunnels into the underground river). This water now flows beautifully though the lower ponds, and back into the river. This system was developed and installed by YPO, and opened by the Mayor. (YPO also got the upper ponds and waterfalls working for a while, but we’re waiting for City Parks to install a new pump for that system.)

• Mulching of flowerbeds. City Parks always used to take leaves to the dump, but I eventually convinced them to layer them on flowerbeds to protect the soil. They still won’t allow us to make compost.

• Design and installation of 100 items of signage throughout the park, thanks again to Hollard – directional, rules, information and welcome signage. Because City Parks has dated and unfriendly signage design, I redesigned a whole signage template for them. Most of the new signs are mounted onto a recycled plastic product.

• Huge weeding, every summer, which has broken the seed cycle of blackjacks and khakibos in most of the West Wilds (we have a long way to go in the East Wilds).

• Restoration of the hillside where the sundial is, including replanting indigenous grasses and aloes and removing all the nasty rusted wire fencing.

• Resurfacing of the carpark and internal road, and painting the pedestrian bridge (done by JRA, but I lobbied for it).

• Repairs to broken and missing pieces of fence, especially on the East Wilds (which is an ongoing job).

• Installation of fencing along Munro Drive, to complete the fencing of the entire perimeter of the park.

• A friend of The Wilds replaced the decrepit security hut, with a new structure which was warmer and nicer for the guards.

• Regular “Walk n Talk” sessions where visitors are led around the park in conversation with interesting people.

• Several weekly exercise classes on the lawns, run by various people who love outdoor training.

• Corporate events, weddings, small events and school tours have become a regular occurrence, providing an income stream to the city (unfortunately this doesn’t directly benefit The Wilds). They must be booked via City Parks, but when organisers approach me, I always ask them to add an element of giving back to the park, usually through volunteer work.

• Moving large aloes from locations where they are in too much shade (they start rotting) into the sun.

• Collecting cuttings for the nursery, which now has several thousand plants, particularly succulents. This has been an ongoing job benefiting from dozens of volunteer hands.

• Restoration of the abandoned compost area with the Rosebank Scouts.

• Large new flowerbeds around Giraffe Lawn, and repairing the little bridge, now adorned with crocheted flowers by local artist Curious Sleuth.

• Other artists are making their mark too; there was a land art project, and Gordon Froud’s sculpture installation, made from orange beacons, stands on the East Wilds.

• Planting indigenous trees. Volunteers have started labeling them too. We now also plant along the streets surrounding the park, to extend the forest canopy.

• Clean-up of the climbing wall, which is now regularly used.

• Clearing of invasive alien trees on the edges of both the East and West Wilds.

• Lining several kilometres of pathways with stones, to prevent damage to the plants on the edges.

• Restoration of 4 drinking fountains, broken for decades. Local mosaic artists are making beautiful detailing.

• The Munro Centenary Gates, which I drew using aloes as a motif which now stand on the Munro Drive side. Look carefully for the owls and mouse…

As the sculptures became popular, I used them to open up sections of the park that people weren’t visiting – they became destinations within the park, allowing people to walk further and spend more time exploring. There are now 100 sculptures – monkeys, a pangolin, ostriches, the red kudu family, klipspringers, duiker and more.

The largest is a 5 metre high pink and yellow giraffe, on what is now known as Giraffe Lawn. This was an important landmark piece as it is visible from the road, drawing the attention of passers-by. I crowdfunded to pay for the materials, which were considerable – it’s so heavy it had to be installed using a crane, and we had to bring a concrete mixer down narrow stone paths to lay the large block of concrete below ground to support it.” Read more on his website

How can you make a difference

Every person can make a difference in this life. We are all uniquely situated with unique talents and abilities. If we look back over the history of this park we see demonstrations of generosity where people have given land, time, money, plants, energy and love. The Wilds is a Park layered with history, memory and natural beauty. Fortunately for the citizens of Johannesburg James Delaney got a dog and needed a place to walk him and through his efforts over these recent years we can again experience this remarkable space. Where can you make a contribution to a park, an organisation or initiative to make a difference in your community?

What makes George Hay Park a Successful Community Park?

As a landscape architect I am always analyzing outdoor spaces and trying to pinpoint what makes them attractive, enjoyable and successful. What changes a ‘space’ into a ‘place’? Why are people drawn to a place and what makes them come back again? What attributes does a public space need to become an integral part of a community and how does one achieve this?

George Hay Park is located in the heart of Parkview, Johannesburg and at first sight it can seem to be an ordinary rectangular open area of lawn with some trees that is not very different to many other parks in Johannesburg. However, on closer inspection you will find that this Park is a place loved by the community and where many residents spend regular time with friends, walk their dogs, share special celebrations and enjoy time together with their children on the playground.

Here are several reasons that contribute to the success of George Hay Park:

1. Location

   Situated in the centre of a residential suburb with grid-like layout the park is within easy walking distance and far enough from busy roads to be secluded but accessible. There is also a road all around the Park which makes for increased visibility (frequented by private security companies patrolling the neighbourhood) adding to a feeling of safety. Cars can park along the street next to where they will be spending time in the Park. Parkview itself has a strong sense of place and rich history which adds to the overall atmosphere of the park.

   
   2. Terrain and Layout

   The physical characteristics of the site can be described as rectangular and flat with many large trees providing shade. It is comprised of a large lawn area, dotted with large trees, includes areas with children’s play equipment and has a strip of indigenous planting along three of the edges.

3. Edges

The Park is surrounded by a black metal fence on three sides and this contributes to the feeling of containment and protection that one feels when inside the Park. This is especially important for keeping small children safe as it prevents them from running into the street. The northern most boundary of the park is where the Columbas Church is located and this edge has a gum pole fence that is a more permeable edge and creates a sense of connection between the church and the Park. (http://stcolumbas.org.za/ )

4. Facilities

As mentioned the park contains play equipment for children of varying ages. The play equipment for smaller children has baby swings, a small slide, a see-saw and monkey bars while the play equipment for older kids has larger swings, a large slide and a roundabout. There is a small basketball court as well as outdoor gym equipment. A beautiful rustic tree house has been built around a large existing tree creating a wonderful space for children to have imaginative play. There are many benches that one can sit on and water is provided in bowls for visiting dogs.

Organic Tree House Built around Existing Tree

5. Use

The Park is used for a variety of small, personal functions (birthday parties, baby showers) and also provides a space for large scale community gatherings. Several well-supported events take place in the park throughout the year, some of which occur annually, including: Halloween Event, Christmas Market and Potjiekos Competition. These events have the added benefit of strenghtening realtionships within the community and celebrating the neighbourhood. It creates memories that become associations which then contributes to the sense of attachment and belonging that a person has to a place.

Halloween Community Event in George Hay Park (photo taken 31 October 2019)

6. Community Ownership

This must be one of the most important characteristics that set this park apart. The Parkview Residents Association) PRA is actively involved in the maintenance and running of George Hay Park and without their involvement it is clear that the park would not be what it is today.

“Beginning in 2007, and continuing ever since, many different projects have been undertaken including the renovation and staffing of the toilet block, the repainting of the perimeter fence, the repair of the drinking fountain, the renovation and securing of the storeroom, the installation of benches and tables, annual planting of indigenous trees, often planned around Arbor Week in September and the repair and installation of new playground equipment. In 2008 the need for a permanent but casual parkkeeper was recognised as a way to keep the park clean and safe on a daily basis. Funds were raised by asking those residents who live on the perimeter of the park (and any others willing to do so) to commit to a monthly contribution. Daily duties include making sure the bins are cleared (and any recyclables removed and the dog poo removed. Other duties include watering the trees and keeping their bases free of grass, feeding the trees, weeding the pavements and pruning bushes and trees where necessary, watering the grass in early summer and raking and piling leaves in winter.” Reference: (http://www.parkview.org.za/content/george-hay-park)

It is evident that a successful park needs many components in order to provide a place for its users to find enjoyment, to feel safe and to take ownership of a place so that they keep returning. When many people use a park it feels safer as there are always other users and it’s presence becomes well embedded in their minds and hearts.

Vegetable Garden Initiative

Indigenous planting along edges - pictured here is Anisodontea scabrosa and Aloe spp.

Other blog posts about Parks in Johannesburg:

• Delta Park

• Emmarentia

• Bordeaux South Park

• Leratong Park

Emmarentia - Johannesburg Botanical Gardens

Beautiful Autumn Colours at Emmarentia Dam

Most people know the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens as ‘Emmarentia’ and think of it more as a Park than a Botanical Gardens. I certainly was not aware of the behind the scenes operations of this green space – there are greenhouses, a herbarium, administration offices, and a compost site all hidden from view to the average user.

Recreation

 Emmarentia is a beautiful, well loved park in the heart of Johannesburg. You will find people of every age and culture enjoying this green space  – runners, cyclists, families with kids riding bikes or feeding the ducks (actually Egyptian Geese but most people call them ducks), young adults picnicking, yoga on boards on the dam, people searching for Pokemon, bridal parties taking photos in the rose gardens, dog walkers, Frisbee or volleyball players, market goers (The Linden Market is held here once a quarter), and music lovers (the park is also a venue for several concerts including Joburg Day).

Egyptian Geese on Emmarentia Dam

Maintenance 

Lindelani Nwedo from Johannesburg City Parks, in charge of operations and maintenance at the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens, explained that the Park has 14 full time employees (I thought it would have been much more!) but makes use of co-operatives such as Jozi at Work together with EPWP for additional manpower to tackle the enormous task of maintaining the 81 hectare park. There are six shed houses that contain mother plants so that all plants in the Gardens can be replaced should they be lost due to fire, flood or drought. The nurserymen who grow the plants in the sheds have green fingers and although the plants are not for sale to the public they are often donated to schools or used for environmental education. Rare or special plants are also exhibited at certain show days such as the Succulent, Horticultural or Bonsai Societies Shows.

Alien invasive control is an important part of the Park’s maintenance programme although the task is often too great for the maintenance team. The Emmarentia Residents Association provides assistance where possible and on 20 October 2018 almost 100 people were involved in removing poisoned invasive alien plants, clearing a clogged dam and cleaning up litter.

Succulents housed in Greenhouses - viewing by prior arrangement with JHB City Parks

Orchids in Greenhouse

History

I was interested to learn more about the Park and its surrounding suburb’s history from a book written by Lucille Davie called “A Journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo”, published by Johannesburg City Parks and Zoo. Here are some insights from the book: “The botanical garden was originally part of the large farm, Braamfontein, named after the Spruit running through the area. The farm belonged to Gerrit Bezuidenhout, one of the first Boer farmers in the area, who received the title deeds in 1858. The farm was sub-divided several times and the Eastern part bought for £4500 by Lourens Geldenhuys in 1886, the year the main gold reef was discovered in Johannesburg. Lourens had three sons, namely Frans, Dirk and Louw. Frans and Louw divided the farm in two, the division running along the present day Orange Road. The each built themselves a farmhouse, both of which still exist, while Dirk went farming at Ermelo. Frans married Judith Grobbelaar and built what is now Marks Park Sports Clubhouse. She gives her name to Judith Road in Emmarentia, while Louw’s wife, Emmarentia Botha, gave her name to the suburb. Over the years Louw sold portions of his farm, which became the suburbs of Melville, Richmond, Braamfontein, Parkview, Forest Town, Westdene, Parkhurst and Parktown. Louw gave to the community in several ways: he founded the Langlaagte Kindertehuis for Boer War orphans in 1902 (now the Abraham Kriel Maria Kloppers Kinderhuis), founded the Braamfontein Government School (present day Louw Geldenhuys School) allowed Boers returning from the was to settle on his land paying some of their profits to him in exchange for land, and he was also actively involved in politics.

The Dabulamanzi Canoe Club is situated on the opposite side of Emmarentia Dam. The clubhouse was built in 2004 and has an active membership from recreational paddlers to world champions. The club has a development programme in the form of the Soweto Canoe Recreation Club which is beautifully captured in the film “Beyond the River”.

Sunset over Emmarentia Dam

 The Park consists of some 8000 trees, large lawn areas and a network of pathways that connect the various themed spaces. There is a Shakespeare Garden containing herbs referred to by Shakespeare in his plays; the Chapel Garden where bridal couples can take their vows; the Western Walk; the Herb Garden filled with traditional culinary  herbs as well as African medicinal herbs; the Succulent Garden that was established in 2006 and contains Aloes, Cactuses and Pelargoniums; and the firm favourite by hundreds of visitors every weekend - the Rose Garden - laid out in 1964 and planted with over 3000 roses in several terraces.

Large Lawn Areas at Emmarentia

Terraced Rose Garden

Certainly this Park has so much to offer and gives one a break from busy city life and is dearly loved by all those that frequent it. I know my daughters particularly love the soft serve that can be bought at the kiosk and enjoyed in the children’s play area.

More Information:

Davie, L. (2014) “A Journey through Johannesburg’s Parks, Cemeteries and Zoo”, published by Johannesburg City Parks and Zoo

 JHB City Parks Link - http://www.jhbcityparks.com/index.php/2015-04-29-12-30-27/find-a-park-contents-64?task=view&id=123

 Emmarentia Residents Association - http://era.org.za/

Dabulamanzi Canoe Club - http://dabulamanzi.co.za/

The Linden Market - https://thelindenmarket.com/

Joburg Day - http://www.947.co.za/joburgday/